So here it is.

Happy riding.

Riding the Great Divide Mountain Bike Route. A little late.

Taking a break: a warming cup of sugar-packed chai on a Spitian backroad.

So, what next for Out There Biking?

With the whole world up in arms with talk of the credit crunch, and the accompanying (or is it encouraging?) blanket media attention, we’ve decided to take a year out for 2009. Cara’s pursuing her medical studies, and I’ll be off to stretch my legs with some bike travels in the Americas.

So this last post, for now, is to thank all to all those who have joined us over the last few years. We’ve really enjoyed running these trips and meeting you all, and I know we’ll miss the high mountains of Spiti and Ladakh come August. We’ll keep you updated with regard to future plans for the tours, but if you can’t wait, then do check out Redspokes, who also run some great rides in the region.

In the meantime, we aim to leave the site up as there’s plenty of general information to be found there, should you want to go it alone. (It’s down at the moment, while we change over our server package.)

All the best for the New Year.

Spiti in late September. This year we were lucky with the weather, until the very last day, when an almighty storm lashed down. A few days later, the region was blanketed in snow – we’d only just made it out in time…

A home away from home. The Sunshine Guesthouse, our hangout in Manali.

OTB’s inimitable Mascot. Those who have met him will be pleased to hear that Chandra’s living the good life in Tabo, lounging in an apple orchard and barking at marauding sheep.

Baba Phunsok and a completely perplexed member of his extended family. Baba’s one of our fantastic support crew, without whom we couldn’t run these trips.

Cheeky Bike Gromit. Our bike are always like magnets to the local kids, who materialise from nowhere to clamber aboard and fettle with gears.

The girls tend to be a bit more shy, and if you’re lucky, will reward you with one of their winning smiles.

And lastly. There are few places as fascinating and complex as India. While our trips are tough, they can never be compared to the life of one Delhi’s many cycle rickshaws…

Pics 1 and 4 copyright EF

If you’re coming to India with us from the UK, there’s no doubt that British Airways offer the quickest and most direct service (T5 issues being sorted by the summer…). As our time in India is relatively short given how far we’re travelling, those extra saved hours on either end – and the fact that a direct plane reduces the chance of damaging trusty steeds – are a real bonus. What’s more, BA’s prices have been really competitive over the last few years.

But like most airlines, BA have been shuffling around their baggage policy recently. Since last year, bikes have travelled for free as an extra piece of sporting equipment, taking any pressure off baggage allowance quandaries. The only stipulation was how they’re packed (pedals off, handlebars turned etc…) and that they’re within a 23kg max weight – no problems there. This year, they’ve introduced a clause stating that while this is still the case, the total dimensions mustn’t exceed 158cm – that’s the height, plus the width, plus the length. Unless you have a folding bike or one with S&S couplings, this is pretty much impossible. Somewhat confusingly, BA also state that standard bike boxes and bags will still be accepted, even though these exceed these dimensions. Anyway, so while it looks like everything will be ok, it’s worth finding the smallest bike box or bike bag that you can, just to try and avoid any issues with surly check in staff.

With this in mind… Although nothing short of a big, heavy hardcase will guarantee the safe passage of your bike, we’ve had very good experiences from Ground Effect’s very diminutive Tardis. With the addition of some locally sourced bubble wrap, cardboard and pipe lagging, it’s really well designed to protect your frame, and packs down to A4 size for easy transportation in the jeeps – for those coming on the Manali-Leh tour. We’ve had several people use them in the last couple of years, and they’ve got a big thumbs up. So well worth looking into, and impressively priced at £60.

Lastly, it’s always worth checking your airline’s bike policy and printing it out to avoid any confusion at the check in counter. Ringing a day earlier to confirm the fact you’ll be bringing a bike can also help.

Photos: Big skies on the Morei Plains, Ladakh.

I’ve long harboured a desire to start up a small scale touring magazine, concentrating on soulful stories backed with sumptuous pictures. Interviews with individuals who’ve undertaken epic journeys. Reportages on businesses, like framebuilders, involved in the touring world (who often do things for love rather than money). Real world product testing, whether it be in the Scottish Highlands, the Mongolian plains or the Atacama Desert. Yes, I know it’s very niche and not economically viable, but it doesn’t stop me wishing…

Anyway, while I was in Portland at the North American Handbuilt Bike Show, I came across a couple of small scale publications bucking the trend of commercial convention. I was drawn to these magazines both by their photography and the passion behind their words. Although their heart beats to a different biking rhythm than the one I know, they’re inspiring enough to make me want to experience it through their pages, and share in their biking obsession. Track and Fixed, in the case of Cog, and Cyclocross, in the case of Embrocation.

Neither are currently available in the UK – more’s the pity – but if you drop them an email, I’m sure you can get a copy sent. Or maybe you know some shops who would like to stock them? I like to get my hands on all the bike magazines I can, but putting my money towards these small, soulful publications gives me the most pleasure.

From the pages of Embrocation…

Lovely cyclocross -inspired pictures.

A piece on framebuilder Chris Igleheart, who I was fortunate enough to meet.

And from the pages of Cog…

An interview with framebuilder John Kendziera.

A photo essay on Japanese Keirin racing.

I just read a press release about a scheme in London to introduce bike hire parks at 300m intervals around the city, hot on the heels of Paris, which recently unveiled 10,000 bikes at 750 points around the capital to unanimous success. The aim is to have one in ten trips in London made by bike, which will tie in with a Legible London signage system to encourage people to walk – apparently fifty per cent of tube journeys in London are quicker by foot.

Barcelona has started something similar, and judging from the amount of red and white stork-like bikes flitting about, it seems to have proved just as popular. In fact, it’s so successful that they need to build more bike parks in the popular spots, as finding a parking slot to return your bike can be tricky. Another teething problem is in the electronic parking slots themselves, some of which aren’t locking the bikes properly. Still, I’m sure these niggles will be sorted out, and it’s certainly encouraging to see it being used so wholeheartedly and effectively.

In France, the bikes cost about a Euro an hour. In Barcelona, the bikes are free for the first 30 minutes – ample time to get around the city. You then have a twenty minute period before being able to pick up another bike – easily taken up by shopping, or a stroll down the Ramblas. If you go over your 30 minute allocation, there’s a small fee that’s knocked off your credit card. It would be perfect for tourists, who could mix and match their forrays around the city, but for the fact that you also need to sign up to the scheme – around 20-30 Euros a year.

Getting a bike is simple. Swipe your card, which releases one of the bikes from the pound.

Grab your wheels and go for a spin. At the end of the ride, drop it back in its plug, which locks it in place, at any of the bike parks dotted about.

The bikes are sturdy, funky, practical little things, with an adjustable saddle, mudguards, tough Schwalbe Marathon Plus tyres and a simple three speed hub gear. There are LED lights for the night too, though they didn’t all seem to be working.

Barcelona is surprisingly bike friendly, with plenty of bikes lanes and some great routes around the harbour and along the beachfront for a sunset amble.

The blog has fallen into a state of neglect over the last week, as I’ve been consumed with bikes, bikes and yet more bikes at the North American Handbuilt Bike Show, held in Portland, Oregon. (note that you can find all the web links to the builders below on the official site)

Now in its fourth year, it proved to be an incredible, inspiring show, host to 152 exhibitors and 7000 attendees. Perhaps it’s better to describe it as a lavish gallery of bicycle artwork. I spent the first of three days simply ricocheting round in semi-dazed confusion, eyes flitting from one fillet brazed frame to another, diverted by a fancy lug, or elaborate paintwork, or a custom rack.

The US frambuilding scene is experiencing a real renaissance. Thanks to a variety of seminars, the show’s a place where framebuilders can gather to hang out, drawing inspiration from one another, and raising the ‘fully custom’ bar yet further. Because we’re not just talking about custom tubesets and sizes here. This is taking the word custom to a completely new level, with mind boggling individuality and obsessive attention to detail. With standards so high, there’s a lot of attention grabbing antics to stand out from the ‘crowd’. Inevitably, not all bikes are to everyone’s tastes (just like art, I guess), but no denying the skill and sweat that’s gone into them.

Here’s just a few pictures of bits that caught my eye, though they’re only a snapshot of what was there.

(above) I was at the show with one of the UK’s premier bespoke builders, Robin Mather, who’s a big fan of JR Weigle (of Framesave fame). I can see why. Exquisite bikes.

(top left) The show was also rich with ‘Randonneur’ style machines, harking back to the golden era of the 1930s, when these bikes were built for unsupported long distance riders covering distances of up to 1200km. This one, by Ahearne, was amongst my favourites, with individual touches like stem mounted shifters and double chainstays. (top right) Custom racks were racks were aplenty, like the lovely ones on the Vanilla stand, which included stainless steel guides to protect paintwork. (top left) In the wake of the 29er’s acceptance by mainstream manufacturers, there were a dozen 650B wheeled bikes (roughly half way between a 29er and a 26in tyre), championed by Kirk Pacenti, they included this gorgeous singlespeed from Sycip. (bottom right) What do you get when you gene splice a ‘cyclocross frame with Panaracer’s 700x45c knobblies? Not a 29er, but a Monster ‘Cross, as these bikes are being called. This one was built by Black Cat with plain gauge tubes for serious abuse.

Just like Crufts, someone’s destined to come away with Best of Show. Canadian Naked Cycles scooped up the award, as well as a slew of other trophies, with their modern take on a late 1800s track bike. In fact, there was rarely less than a mob of camera-snapping enthusiasts around it. Note the wooden rims, disc brake and integrated though-the-frame lock. Apparently, it was sold to Lance Armstrong… Bike fanatic Robin Williams also attended the show.

(above left) Another theme was the profusion of integrated cable runs; snaking up fork legs, through top tubes or worming through stems. This one is from a Courage bike, who won best newcomer. (above right) Custom head badges really stood out too, like those on A.N.T. Bikes. (bottom left) Integrated stems and handlebars put the finishing touch to a custom cockpit, as with this Sycip fixie. (bottom right) Or how about some faux rust irony, for that ‘I just found this in grandpa’s barn’ look…

I love my utility bikes so was pleased to see a few ‘longtails’ too, like this cool cat from Hunter. Unlike Surly’s impending Big Dummy, it doesn’t use the Xtracycle Freeradical system – so it’s just lash and go.

Made by Engin, this 29er features a Pacenti crown both on the fork and at the chainstays: the rear BB7 disc cable runs directly through it. The builder, Drew Guldarian, used to be a chef…

Aside from a resurgence of wooden rims, was this wood and carbon frame from Renovo – the whole bike weighed around 18lbs. As well as showcasing new ideas, the show’s a chance for fans and prospective buyers to talk to builders.

Bruce Gordon’s ti road bike picked up a couple of awards, including best road bike. But I really liked his little purple BMXer, fitted with his hallmark ti cantilever brakes and a Ritchey-style double crown fork – it’s that Pacenti again.

Rohloff were also displaying their new belt driven hubs, and accompanying sprockets. Belts are good for 10 000 miles and knock half a pound off a frames weight. But you’ll need a custom frame, or an S&S coupling in the chainstay to fit them. Due out very soon, they’re recommended for city use initially. Next to it is a Paragon sliding dropout, on an Igleheart. Framebuilder Chris seems an incredibly kind soul and a keen cycle tourer; we’ve made tentative plans to ride over the Khyber Pass one day.

I’m writing up a feature for What Mountain Bike, and had a fantastic few days ferreting around in the name of research, meeting some immensely talented people, and having the opportunity to hang out with framebuilders. I even squeezed in a couple of lovely rides in the foresty, hilly outskirts of this bike-friendly city.

Which at the end of the day – no matter how beautiful your bike looks – is what it’s all about….

Thanks to Robin Mather and Gary Boulanger (of Gaansari fame) from Bikeradar for helping out.

I’ve headed over to Portland, Oregon, to visit the North American Handbuilt Bike Show (NAHBS), a gathering of the finest custom framebuilders in the land. Seeing as the show starts at the weekend, I’ve been hanging out with Trystan, who I toured with in China and Tibet when I was cycling home from Sydney. Portland’s the most progressive bike city in the States, so it’s refreshing to see bike lanes, and plenty of commuters using them. There’s also a plethora of excellent indie bike shops, like Veloshop (stunning Vanilla Bicycles Speedvagen on display), River City Cycles (very nice Ahearne 29er), Veloce (Indy Fab loveliness) and Clever Cycles (butch Big Dummy prototype).

Judging by people’s rides, fixie mania has swept the place. I can’t believe how many there are. Machines kitted with sawn off flat bars for razoring through the traffic and offset with deep section aero wheels, leather toe straps, gorgeous wooden mudguards or gleaming, curvy chrome Nitto track bars. Way too cool for me.

The bike parks are filled with Bianchis, Surlys, old converted racers, titinium Sevens, even the odd Kieren bike. A palette of burnt oranges, urban greens, stealth blacks. Spendy Ortlieb panniers protect against the regular downpours. There’s a big messenger scene, though seeing as it’s all about the messenger-look here, it’s hard to tell who’s who. Got your delivery bag (Chrome, Timbukt2, Reload et al) and minimal fixie? Only speed will tell you apart… Still, however you choose to do it (and even if that means jumping on the bike-as-a-fashion-accessory bandwagon), it’s all about fewer cars on the streets. And at less than $700 dollars for a complete build, with really very, glitzy shiny, colour co-ordinated finishing kit, these bikes make a lot of low maintenance sense, given Portland’s inclement weather and easy gradients. Whether you be a messenger or not.

I’ve been lent a bike for the week. As per Trystan’s style, it isn’t just any set of wheels. A singlespeed cyclocross built by Independent Fabrications, complete with S&S couplings for ease of tranport between cities. Not too shabby…

This place is a bike geek’s haven. I’ve spotted loads of old 10 speed Schwinn-style bikes cruising around, as well as other classics I’d never heard of, including this one from Jupiter cycles. I love the motif set into the top tube. It was parked outside Powell’s Book Shop, one of the biggest independent book shop in the world, with a whole bunch of other quirky and characterful machines. Clearly, these people love their bikes. I like that (-:

I’m not sure what this was about though. Maybe it’s something to do with Zoobomb, who hurtle down steep streets on kids bikes… at night.

Apparently, beer also plays a pivotal role in Portland cyclical life…

Interested in learning more about bike maintenance from the comfort of your own home/shed/garage? Get in touch with Mike (mike@planet-x-bikesDOTcom), whose well versed with teaching all levels. If you recognise him, it’s probably because he’s the man who gets stranded, mud-clumped bikes back on the trail at the Merida Marathon series, as well as working for DT Swiss at the World Championships, building wheels for the Atherton clan amongst others. So yes, he knows his stuff.

The Luxury Workshop had never looked so good. The Paduans were working hard – you could almost feel their brains heating up the cold, wintry room.

Kate gives the Stumpjumper some TLCC – Tender Loving Cable Care. Maybe Jack will now let her look after her own bike (-;

Demystifying the art of the ‘Gear Fettle’.

Half a turn here… Easy now…

The Midas Touch – lining up the rear mech for blissfully crisp gear shifting.

Hat didn’t look entirely convinced – still, plenty of time to hone fettling technique for the planned Great Divide Ride this autumn.

Tools of the trade. Mike brought workstands, a wheel truing stand and a lovely set of Park Tools, laid out like a surgery table.

And this Park Tools travelling rucksack. How cool is that. I want one!

Tris was in the zone. Then a couple of spokes snapped… Time for a visit to the wheel stand.

It was a good excuse for Jack to don his Pedros wardrobe. After all, Pedros cap=Jack the Mechanic. Using some classic Hope hubs he’d been guarding for a special occasion, the wheel came together very nicely. Good paduan.

Thirty two bits of wire and a hoop later, and the wheel was ready for de-stressing.

Tea Lady Tris keeps the brews coming between repacking bearings.

Groovy Chicks get their hands greasy.

There were those who found it a little odd that after a summer guiding tours around the Indian Himalayas, we’d choose to spend a couple more months bike touring in equally mountainous SW China. For some reason, they even thought we’d be tired of riding by then. Little did they know that not only where we very happy to have the opportunity to spend more hours in the saddle nosing around new places, but I was also thinking about what bike I was looking forward to riding when I got home. Sad, yes.

Funnily enough, of all the bikes in the shed, it was my trusty Spesh Rockhopper that I’d ‘Xtracyclatised’ (more about that here) before leaving for India that kept popping into my mind. It was the bike I’d ridden back home from Australia close to ten years ago. Pulling the aged Spesh out of retirement, and metamorphosing it into the cycling equivalent of a pickup, had given it new life and opened up the world of ‘longtails’ to me. These long wheelbase hardtails use a variety of modular loading styles to carry all manner of stuff – be it shelves, canoes, ladders, boxes, cardboard, animals, even people. They’re a bridge towards surprisingly easy car-free living, without too many of the compromises some people might associate with it.

Of course, there’ve been fully fledged cargo bikes around for years – Mike Burrow’s Eight Freight is perhaps the ultimate evolution for serious load hauling in the city. Let alone the millions of people around Asia make do with all sorts of heavy, unwieldly, bare-bone-basic trikes – in China they’re often electric assisted, in India they’re just manhandled along the road. ‘Longtails’, as they’ve been dubbed, have opted for a slightly different approach. Having taken their cue from Xtracycle, they’re closer in looks to a conventional bike, so probably appeal more to people who don’t want to look too ‘different’. They share a lot of mtb components, like wheelsize, drivetrains and disc brakes, so you can mix and match parts, cut costs and even recycle kit you already have – often the underlying drive behind these projects. Although they’re not as capable as fully fledged cargo bikes, they can easily handle what most people need to carry, with added versatility and even surprisingly good off road ability.

(picture lifted from Commute By Bike)

Surly’s much anticipated Big Dummy kickstarted a lot of renewed interest and pips all others for sheer utilitarian cool. This monster can handle 2.5in tyres, with mudguards. The curved top tube looks great and has a practical reason too, by lowering clearance for riders of different heights. I’m not sure if a bike like the Big Dummy makes complete sense for touring, though these guys, traversing the length of the Americas offroad, would certainly disagree. Or maybe it’s just that you’d need to approach touring with a different mindset: less of a beady eye on the scales and distances covered, and more on the fun stuff you could bring/buy along the way. Like solar panels and a sound system… The Big Dummy makes use of Xtracycle’s innovative modular loading system, and all the bits you can get/make for it.

But just as interesting is this far more affordable offering from Yuba, in the shape of the Mundo. Unless you get in quick and order one in the next couple of days, it’ll cost upwards of £460 in the UK, depending on build and spec. It’s rated to haul a massive 200kg – where leg power permits – thanks to a beefed up wheelset. Similar to Xtracycle’s ethical outlook (who are involved in World Bike), the whole concept is closely tied in with a model for developing regions too, and a percentage of profits goes towards Re-Cycle, who ship second hand bikes to Africa. This is a bike that aims to be strong, simple, practical and carry a message too. Like the Xtracycle gear, it’s being distributed in the UK by Loads Better.

Kona’s UTE is another contender. It will be interesting to see what accessories are available for it, or whether it’s just a stand along product – Kona say there are some in the pipeline. Cost is £580, which includes a mechanical front disc and an 8 speed drivetrain. Kona are also involved in some overseas bike-related donation projects.

Here’s my Rockhopper: the Green Machine. I ended up getting it resprayed new leaf/spring green by the guys at Argos, having a couple of dents filled in too, and some new ‘old’ decals for the finishing touch. Almost all the bits are from my spare parts box or borrowed off other bikes, including some lovely old XT thumb shifters so I can run a cheap 8 speed chain and cassette. The Xtracycle concept involves various straps and modular shelves to suit different loads, and a kickstand which makes loading much easier. I like the ‘cinch-it-all-on-somehow’ concept; it seems to suit my personality. The bolt-on Xtracycle appendage (called a Freeradical) means the frame’s a tad flexy, but that’s ok as it helps to float over bumps – thanks also to the monster 2.25 Big Apples I’ve now squeezed in, which just pop up curbs like the bike has a couple of inches of travel. Storage isn’t an issue. I hang it upways off a normal bike hook, supported by its tail, so no extra room is needed.

A bunch of specialist framebuilders in the US have also built some custom longtails, like this lovely creation from Tony Pereira and a Pugsley snow/sandbike-inspired behemoth from Traffic Cycles. The guys from Riding the Spine have written an ode to it here, and demystified all those chain lines and clearance issues that arise from running close to 4″ Endomorph tyres. Independent Fabrications also displayed a longtail at last years North American Handbuilt Bike Show, powered by a Stokemonkey. And I’ve heard of a couple of other manufacturers considering models too, so watch this space…

My parents gave me a breadmaking machine for Christmas. Cara used to be BreadMaster but now that she’s moved back to the States, I’ve taken over baking duties. It’s seems fitting to have the house filled with the aroma of fresh bread, as the workshop that is now crammed with bikes was once a bakery for the railway workers who lived in this part of Totterdown.

Howard, who joined us on one of our early tours, found what’s apparently a very fancy toaster in a skip. He coaxed it back to life and proffered it as a house warming gift. Clearly traumatized by the Indian Driving Experience, he also laid his hands on a Tata truck badge and soldered it to the toaster, voodoo-style. It works a treat, and can megatoast six thick slides at once, providing perfect quantities for post winter rides. It seems apt to, for as Katie pointed out, six is the average number of locals in every (small) car in India.